SUNDAY SERVICE OPEN STUDIO for FASHION REVOLUTION WEEK

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On April 29th, during Fashion Revolution Week, you are invited to join us between 2-10PM for Sunday Service, to mend and upcycle your clothes (and drink wine, obvs)

See inside a small London atelier where clothes, leather couture, Hollywood costumes, and wearables are made. Peep the tools involved and learn about the time and skills required. Clothing manufacture isn't automated – every machine is controlled by a human, often much more than you are led to believe. We want to promote longevity, fixing things and reducing the amount we consume by extending the life of clothes we already own. Learning to do it yourself illustrates how much goes into the making of a garment and better appreciate the ones we have!

You will have access to:

  • industrial straight stitch Singer, ideal for lingerie to leather

  • industrial Rimoldi 4 thread overlocker

  • domestic Janome 4 thread overlocker (usually set to babylock)

  • domestic Pfaff Select 4.2 IDT (walking foot)

  • vintage UK10 full-body K+L hanging mannequin, male 40" tailoring torso, store mannequins, rogue limbs

  • sewing tools, leather tools, haberdashery and lots of offcuts

In return for this marvelous day of like minded people, wine, and lots of fun, we ask that you add your voice to the Fashion Revolution campaign. There will be lots of pictures taken. We will have posters saying 'I made my clothes' and these can be hashtagged alongside #whomademyclothes to amplify Fashion Revolution’s day of awareness and transparency.

FASH REV poster1.jpg
 
 

Fashion Revolution is a global movement calling for a fairer, safer, cleaner, more transparent fashion industry. Between the 22nd and 29th of April 2018, let's hold brands accountable and ask, #whomademyclothes? If you aren't interested in sewing, why not get involved by photographing yourself with your favourite garment and directly asking the brand, or creator, via social media? Find out how here (info pack), or click the logo on the right to go to the FR website.

Fashion Revolution Week happens each year around the 24th of April, the anniversary of the Rana Plaza factory collapse, where 1,138 people were killed and many more injured. This year marks the 5th year anniversary of the collapse. Let's use this week to encourage millions of people to ask brands ‘Who made my clothes’ and demand greater transparency in the fashion supply chain.
 

 

how does it work?

FREE TO ALL. EVERYONE IS WELCOME, from absolute beginners to professionals.

To join us, drop an email titled SUNDAY SERVICE via the contact page, introducing you and your project.

You'll be offered a timeslot, as space is limited. You are free to haggle and offer bribes of communal snacks, wine and/or skills to share in return for extra time, or special requests. Be inventive. Choose something you can do in a few hours. Fix something specific, or test a technique which you can take away for another project. Learn decorative visible mending or use the leather tools to fix your favourite belt. Maybe you want to buy a sewing machine, but have never used one before – ask for a half hour sewing lesson, and we'll get you up to speed. It can be something as simple as sewing on those buttons you've been procrastinating about for three years.

what is Sunday Service?

The idea of the open studio is to focus on the neglected – both our things and our selves. Workaholics need structured downtime, creatives need space to create for themselves. It is a time when no 'work' is allowed; instead we make time for the enjoyable things usually superseded by deadlines and London nonsense. So far in 2018, Sunday Service has facilitated pattern cutting for beginners, visible mending, traditional leatherwork, life drawing for AMCs 360 animated sessions, photogrammetry, repairing and upcycling clothing, shoe repair, a bit of Battle Jacket Sewing Club, shellac manicures, the proper way to drink Absinthe, and the consumption of many, many Bloody Marys.
Quality time with like minds, enjoying the process, and learning. We also do skill swaps in in things like electronics and etextiles, and offer access to a small in-house electronics lab, a full compliment of power tools, hand tools, and art materials. Images from previous Sundays below.

SCiFI-LONDON 48hr film challenge

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The 48 hour film challenge happens a few weeks before the Sci-Fi London film festival and is exactly what it says on the tin: A film made in 48 sleepless hours, on a weekend in April. On Saturday at noon, representatives from your team turn up at Sci-Fi London HQ and randomly select the required elements of the film: the title, a prop/action, a line of dialogue and an optional science theme. You then have until 1pm Monday to write, prep, shoot, edit, VFX, score, render and upload. It's mad good fun. I thoroughly recommend it.

This year our required elements were:
Title: TWENTY TO ONE
Prop/action: a character rips a page from a book
Line of dialogue: Nothing's impossible, that's what you always taught me

The story and characters were locked about 10:30pm on Saturday, which didn't give me much time to speak to the director and start sorting out costumes before the actors went to bed. The cyborg outfit Alexa is wearing is not just a costume, it's actually V.1 of a wearabletech etextile platform I am designing for rapid prototyping. You can see more about Second Skin and how it is made in the projects section of this site.

Every year a slightly different group of us makes up the team. Linchpins Tom Worth and Al Monty are there every year herding the cats. Tom sends an email around and everyone shows up if they are available. Directors rotate; this year it was the turn of our resident VFX genius Ken Turner. Sometimes I'm just costume, other years I've covered costume, makeup and art department. Last year I 'consulted' from SF (mainly complaining about my geographical issues and giving permission to raid my archive) and was credited thus. I just noticed there's a yearly credit for 'Oakiness', which goes to the most rock-like person on set who gets everyone through. This year it went to Baxter the dog, who was very patient with us invading his house.
Why do we do this? Because film people are stress junk workoholics and erm.. everyone needs a hobby? It’s one of my favourite yearly creative binges, second only to etextile summercamp. An excuse to spend quality time with the gang, make an art and to try and get our film in the top ten. Top ten means the film will be shown on the big screen at the Sci-Fi London film festival on the 2nd May. So we get to celebrate by drinking and shouting at our creation.. #goals

Right: Our 2014 entry Back came second place and went on to win the 'Science and The Imagination' prize at Danny Boyle's Shuffle film festival in East London. I love this one.

For more films by our gang, go here: https://vimeo.com/album/3892819
To see more flms, check out the hashtag #SFL48HR

See you next year?

How To Get What You Want: KOBA etextiles tailorshop

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Hannah Perner-Wilson and Mika Satomi are best known for their epic explorations in DIY etextiles and documentation on www.kobakant.at. Anyone working with etextiles will be familiar with the incredible resource How To Get What You Want.

Their latest project KOBA takes this work one step further and offers an open studio and shop front allowing the public to walk in and commission whatever wearable electronic garment they can dream up! If you are in Berlin, I recommend you pay them a visit.

I started 2018 in style, spending an inspiring week in the KOBA Schneiderei in Kreuzberg. Working alongside Hannah and Mika I drafted the block for my unisex modular jumpsuit collection (more on that later) as well as giving a talk about 'how do we know what we want? making fantasies come true' at their first #Shoptalk event. We collaborated on a prototype jumpsuit (for ..me!) and you can follow the design and evolving documentation here. In the belt are vibration motors which tell me north when activated - by jumping, of course. It also wakes me up by 'purring' if I have been stationary for too long. Watch the video below or check out their blog post to learn more.

You can follow the evolution of the tailorshop and ongoing documentation on the KOBA website. If you want to be inspired and lose yourself in a web of inspiration, I encourage you to follow the multitude of links in this post and explore their work. You won't regret it.

I will be going back to KOBA in March (after we have recovered from fashion week) with my partner in crime Bex to see what wonders have been dreamt up since this visit.. and to make custom jumpsuits for Hannah and Mika.

Anyone familiar with my clothing obsessions will know: jumpsuits are the way of the future. This allusory jumpsuit pattern (and the whole collection) will be open sourced and uploaded as soon as we have: made the different style samples, rubbed our beards thoughtfully, hated them, decided we love them, shot them beautifully, presented them officially and finally, refined the patterns and uploaded the content. No biggie. You can have the patterns for free and will also be able to order them from us. The future will be sexy and utilitarian and have options. We have one month to complete this mission. Watch this space.

a workshop at ACM TEI 2018 - Designing eTextiles for the Body: Shape, Volume & Motion

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Call for Participation

Our clothing is not flat, but rather conforms and adapts to our bodies. In this hands-on workshop, participants will experiment and create 3D eTextile garments, while discussing the rich history, current state and possible future directions of wearables.

Through garment construction and rapid prototyping, we will explore how to integrate eTextiles into volumetric, tailored garments that better conform to the shape of the human body, and better respond to its movements. We will show examples of connectors and sensors, and discuss the affordances and limitations of various textiles.

A short masterclass will introduce a range of techniques for garment design and construction, ensuring the workshop is suitable for all skill levels. We will include a brief history of wearables and eTextiles, and an overview of recent innovations within HCI and fashion. We encourage people to bring existing projects and ideas, as well as their own materials and preferred microcontrollers.

See the full call: https://3dtextiles.github.io

On TEI website: https://tei.acm.org/2018/cp-studios/#S2


Call for Position Statements

The studio is open for anyone to join, but we have a limited number of possible participants. We encourage everyone interested in participating to briefly outline their experience with textiles, their research interests and how this workshop will connect to their own research. This will help us to tailor the workshop to the participants and ensure diversity in participant backgrounds.

Please send us an e-mail at 3dtextiles@googlegroups.com

 

The Embodisuit on tour: November at SIGGRAPH Asia

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The Embodisuit is currently travelling the world with Sophia Brueckner, inspiring conversation about our relationship with screens, data and aesthetics in the emerging field of wearables.

It has recently been displayed at Technarte in Los Angeles, HASTAC 2017: The Possible Worlds of Digital Humanities in Florida, The IoT 2017 conference at the ARS Electronica centre in Linz, and is now on display at SIGGRAPH Asia in Bangkok. 

Follow the hashtag #embodisuit on Twitter, Instagram and facebook to find out where it will be travelling next, and stay tuned for new textile interpretations and modular workshops

 
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mi.mu gloves are awarded WEARsustain funding for design development

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Mi.mu gloves are awarded WEARsustain European funding for design and manufacture development. Lead by Rachel Freire, the textile development project will run from August 2017 to February 2018, developing the mi.mu gloves textiles and hardware and creating a sustainable process for manufacture.

This exciting grant means we can pursue things close to our hearts, such as sustainable use of materials, ethical business practice and also begin our journey to make a fully supported DIY glove!

Congratulations to eTextile Summercamp alumni NEFFA, Solemaker.io and Kobakant who also received funding. The future will be sustainable!

PIER 9 artist in residence

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From February to June 2017 I was an Artist in Residence for the spring cohort at Autodesk's Pier 9 workshop in San Francisco. A diverse group of 23 artists were given 24/7 access to the incredible facilities and facilitators at Pier 9 and the opportunity to work within a vibrant community of artists and makers. Safe to say it was amazing.

My goal was to expand on my work in eTextiles, using this amazing opportunity to experiment, learn and just make art for 4 whole months. I wanted to learn circuit design and Eagle, to mill my own boards, to become proficient in 3D printing, test biodegradable and conductive filaments and temper my hatred of plastic to allow me to explore printing fabric and connectors.. to better understand 3D modelling and scanning, to experiment with the conductive stretch textiles I have been using and find their limits. And of course to prototype DIY eTextile data gloves which could be made with minimal sewing skills. I did all these things and more! I even squeezed in a visit to TEI2017 in Japan to present second skin. Though I didn't learn to use the water jet. But you can't have it all..

I also wanted to focus on the process of documentation for future open-source work. Efficiently documenting and clearly communicating both design and process is a skill in itself (I am inspired by the best) and often neglected in favour of flashy magical publicity images. I'm certainly guilty of this. The residency was my opportunity to spend the time making it a fluid part of my practice. One of the outcomes asked of residents is to make Instructables. This is also one of the reasons I applied. Now I need to make sure I continue this practice with all my work.

You can see my instructables here: http://www.instructables.com/member/rachelfreire/
Work in progress images of my projects can now be found on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/rachelfreirestudio/albums

I used my time at the Pier as an opportunity to collaborate with the inspiring artists and engineers in my cohort. A snapshot of projects are below:
 

The Embodisuit in collaboration with Sophia Brueckner [instructables: sensor // code // connectors]

 

DIY data gloves in collaboration with Artyom Maxim [video: controlling a Kuka robot with a DIY data glove]

 

Algorithmically articulated leather in collaboration with Pushan Panda:

Second Skin at TEI2017 in Keio University, Yokohama Japan

In spring 2017 I attended my first academic conference. I presented my work Second Skin at TEI is the annual conference for Tangible, Embedded and Embodied Interactions Arts Track program.

It was an exciting opportunity to put my work into a completely different context. I have always worked independently, but now working with technology - and the essential need for collaboration in this area - it makes sense to seek out new avenues to communicate with my peers.. and find out who they are!

Most people who attend the conference are from an institution or an academic background. Taking my work - usually presented at fashion week - into this new world was really interesting.

stretch circuit eTextiles

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Second Skin is a project inspired by the bonding research I am doing for mi.mu gloves. This takes the idea one step further, leading to experiments with stretch sensors instead of bend sensors (for the gloves) and exploring bonded stretch circuits using eTextiles and sports/dancewear fabrics. Using bonding processes usually seen in sportswear and lingerie, I have been applying this idea to stretch conductive textiles layered (and isolated) in sheer stretch materials.

Tutorial here, with a list of materials used:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Stretch-Circuit/

The aim is to create an entire garment with interchangeable panels. Using this technique, low profile stretch panels can be used in places where wires would usually be a problem. With the right connectors, a garment like this could be used as a rapid prototyping shell to test circuit configurations on the body.

Thank you to Adafruit for featuring it on #wearablewednesdays:
https://blog.adafruit.com/2016/08/31/how-to-make-a-practical-stretch-circuit-for-your-wearable-tech-wearablewednesday-wearabletech-rachelfreire/

mi.mu gloves in Barcelona at Sonar+D

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Last week team mi.mu gloves visited Barcelona to present the gloves at Sonar+D. Chagall performed a full live set of her Stray Flux EP using only her gloves to manipulate her voice and sound and to trigger and loop samples and effects. Everything you hear is performed live. You can watch the recording of the livestream here at La Vanguardia's facebook page

Mi.mu gloves are a wireless wearable technology which allow you to create, manipulate, record and play music using only your hands, changing the dynamic of electronic music from a physically introverted interaction with a computer to one which is more dynamically and expressively connected to the audience. It restores traditional elements of performance to modern electronica, fusing the future of music with essential elements that have made live performance a physically and emotionally engaged art form throughout history. Using a small portable router connected to a laptop running our Glover software and any program which reads MIDI or OSC, you can map any sound to any gesture or posture and manipulate it in real time in a 3D space. Mi.mu stands for 'me'/'my'/'midi' and 'music'. Mi.mu gloves are a completely programmable wearable gestural interface which give the user almost unlimited possibilities as to how they can map their own 3D space to create music through gesture and movement. They are currently made and released in limited runs from our London HQ above Rachel Freire Studio and we are steadily building an international user base as we develop the technology, exploring and mapping this exciting language of gesture.

L-R Rachel Freire, Adam Stark, Chagall Van Den Berg, Eduardo FitchFrom sold out popstar arena tours to TED talks at CERN, exploring their potential to make music more accessible to those with disabilities, encouraging hackers to break down barriers …

L-R Rachel Freire, Adam Stark, Chagall Van Den Berg, Eduardo Fitch

Chagall's performance also debuted her new interactive visuals, controlled by the gloves. The code was written by mi.mu's Glover author Adam Stark and art directed by the brilliant Eduardo Fitch. All Chagall's clothes for the live show and in the projections are by mi.mu textile designer Rachel Freire. The team had an amazing time sharing our work, both live at the venue and the 60k and counting viewers of the livestream video. Huge thanks to Sonar+D for brilliant documentation and tech support and a really great show.

Learn more about mi.mu gloves here. This summer we will be announcing a residency for those who want to get their hands in a pair of gloves and add to our growing community of users, makers and hackers.

Follow mi.mu gloves on social media   TWITTER   |   FACEBOOK   |   INSTAGRAM   |   YOUTUBE

MACHETE

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Epic image of the year so far goes to Amanda Palmer, wearing Rachel Freire on the cover of her new single Machete. The gown is one of two showpiece couture gowns from SS11 remade from WWII parachutes. The collection is titled 'the girl I never was' and this is EXACTLY how it is meant to be worn.
Photo by the brilliant photographer and film maker Allan Amato. There's an wonderful story behind this beautiful image, you can read it here and listen to Machete on Amanda's blog: http://amandapalmer.net/machete/

AGxRF: ALEXANDRA GROOVER x RACHEL FREIRE AW16 USING PIÑATEX

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AGxRF: ALEXANDRA GROOVER x RACHEL FREIRE AW16 USING PIÑATEX

Rachel Freire and Alexandra Groover launch their new accessories collaboration at Paris Fashion Week AW16. AGxRF is designed to compliment Alexandra's timeless flowing robes which are 100% zero waste as well as sustainably and locally sourced and manufactured.
The collection uses the innovative and sustainable new material Piñatex alongside remade leather items with nearly all styles offered in a leather or vegan option.

AGxRF will be available for buyers and press alongside Alexandra Groover black label ANCESTRAL collection in Paris 3-9th March. More information after the cut

Read More

the tempest

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Incredible underwater photographer Zena Holloway recently got in touch with an enquiry about mermaids.. she was shooting dancers from the Birmingham Royal Ballet for their upcoming production of the Tempest. The brief was unconventional, abstract and neutral, maintaining the full outline of the dancers bodies. Rachel made cascading organza seaweed tendrils especially for the shoot, and also provided an existing mermaid corset (because who doesn't have one of those, right?).

It was such a pleasure to be involved in this wonderful shoot. The Images are exquisite!

Rachel is shortlisted for the Arts Foundation award for Materials Innovation

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Rachel has been shortlisted for the Art Foundation 2016 award for Materials Innovation. Should she win, this funding would allow dedicated time to work on development of the e-textiles version of the mi.mu gloves and the accompanying open source documentation. Keeping the gloves open sourced and working towards accessible technology in the future is a key aim of the project, so keep fingers crossed! The award will be announced on the 28th January at the 20th Century Theatre in London.

Read the full shortlist here: http://www.artsfoundation.co.uk/winners-and-shortlist/2016

Below images show the current design direction. Hannah Perner Wilson's initial woven e-textile glove (left) and Rachel's latest bonded e-textile glove (right). This experimental glove will be developed by Hannah and Rachel alongside the current high performance mi.mu gloves which use bend sensors and are released in limited batches here. If you are interested in buying a pair, there is a small run being produced in the spring! We are also launching a residency program so follow us on social media or sign up to our newsletter for updates.

For more information on the mi.mu gloves project: www.mimugloves.com
mi.mu gloves dev blog: http://dev-blog.mimugloves.com
Hannah's incredible glove flickr: eTextiles |  mi.mu V1  |  DIY  |  glove archive  | 
Rachel's manufacturing prototypes flickr: RachelFreireStudio

Follow us on social media:   FACEBOOK  |  TWITTER  |  INSTAGRAM  |

downtime: terminator/potato face

In late october and early november I had two major operations on my face to reposition my jaw. Big thanks to the brilliant teams at Guys and Kings hospitals! This was not cosmetic - I had no idea what I would end up looking like - but to correct a class II malocclusion anterior open bite and cross bite. This basically means my lower jaw was recessed and I couldn't bite my front teeth together. The other potential change is quite daunting: I may become less stressed.. I've spent my whole adult life unconsciously pushing my lower jaw forwards as it won't sit properly in a resting position. Imagine being in a constant state of tension. It may explain my workaholic behaviour. Hmm. The potential outcome is I may be more inclined to relax, switch off and sleep like a normal person. The worry is that my cyborg mojo might be due to this physical anomaly. Dangerous times.

After extensive train track braces shenanigans, the operations set both my upper and lower jaw into their new positions, and I will now spend a few months looking like a dribbling bruised potato while I heal. Between operations 1 and 2 I managed to crack out an outfit for Empress Stah, but have decided I need real downtime for this second round. So things will be quiet for a while..

Below left: terminator face. Right: 7-days post-op portrait by genius artist, friend and muse Manko

leather fingerwaves for a Rebel Heart

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Last month we received an exciting request for leather headpieces for the flapper finale of Madonna's Rebel Heart Tour. Commissioned by the brilliant Arianne Philips (costume designer of Hedwig and The Angry Inch and Tank Girl <3), we made an exclusive piece from the Concrete Roses collection. A fingerwave hairstyle which can be styled in under a minute is ideal for the military precision of dancers' quickchange. The particular design Arianne chose was not in the lookbook.. for some mysterious reason. It was clearly destined to be exclusive to the tour and will now be known as the Rebel Heart headband.

This original design sketch was featured in a 'first look' article on WWD alongside her formidable roster of designers.  Big love to Arianne for including us in her epic design!

Rachel and Rebecca were joined by the talented Christian Warren Landon and made twelve pieces by hand in East London: 6 in polished black and 6 in pearl white. The carved and moulded leather fingerwaves are made using only European veg tan leather, water, traditional swivel knives and bone folding tools - and infused with a lack of sleep, an excess of swearing and a noble quantity of vodka.

These sculptural pieces were never intended to be made en masse. Instead the collection was designed around super minimal use of materials and tools, with all the emphasis on craftsmanship and human touch. How viable this is in the modern world is questionable. It is fascinating how we as consumers perceive the value of ornate craftsmanship, and how this in turn influences design practice. The collection was originally presented with this in mind. It was offered bespoke from the atelier and no wholesale orders were taken. So making a dozen in quick succession to a tight deadline was a baptism by fire as the process is tiring and intense, even for us maniacal leatherworkers.

However, you don't say no to Arianne and Madge! ;) So thank you ladies. The result was a perfect commission: pushing the material - and ourselves - to the limit.

THE LEAP

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Last spring we designed the costumes for Karel Van Bellingen's debut movie The Leap. Rachel worked on the initial phase of design and locked in the costumes to commence shooting, then handed over to Rebecca who handled everything on set and designed for additional scenes. You can read the synopsis and watch the 30min film in full below. With 100k views and climbing on Vimeo, The Leap is a stunning testament to the talents of it's director, who is also responsible for the writing, production design and editing. Huge congratulations to Karel and the whole team for a truly stunning sci-fi film!

 

The Leap: In 2069, New Earth is declared open for civilian migration, a decade after its discovery. As tales of wonder and opportunity reach the Old World, taking ‘the leap’ becomes the dream of millions. Unable to afford the journey, many of the less fortunate risk their lives being smuggled aboard cargo ships. The inter-planetary Migration Administration, or IPMA, deals with human trafficking on a biblical scale. Fifteen years later, Jacob Reiss, a disillusioned IPMA veteran, has a fateful encounter with a young cartel prostitute. A meeting that forces him to confront a dark chapter from his past in order to save them both from a bleak future in one final, violent shot at redemption.

eTextiles summer camp and wearable prototyping accessories

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eTextiles summer camp is a week-long gathering of expert practitioners in the fields of eTextiles and soft circuitry, founded by Hannah Perner-Wilson and Mika Satomi of Kobakant. It is an wonderful place to share ideas, collaborate and prototype at Moulins de Palliard arts centre in rural france. There was an public exhibition of our pieces, workshops to teach techniques, focus groups to explore ideas in more depth, presentations to share and discuss findings and lots of home cooked food and local wine. A perfect summer holiday and a hotbed of future collaborations and inspiration.

I worked in the 'Make your Tech and Wear it' focus group and explored the aesthetic language of wearables and how this can/will affect our response to tech on the body. The image below is a pair of leather prototyping cuffs made using only textiles and soft circuitry (and - full disclosure - four sewing pins). The right cuff has an eTextile breadboard, power source and thermochromic coating to warn the wearer if a component is drawing too much power. The left cuff is a continuity tester with interchangeable output slots, a pouch to hold small components, and pin cushion. This is a working sketch for an idea to make a rapid prototyping kit which will be presented as a fashionable accessory. It also asks the question: would someone want wear it without knowing of it's inherent purpose and could this pique their interest in making/wearing tech?

The idea was inspired by Irene Posch and Hannah Perner-Wilson's 'Tools for Practitioners' project, developing the aesthetic aspect to pose questions. The final prototype will incorporate all the ideas from the pair of cuffs into one refined functional object and I will make a small run for people to wear and test. I would be fascinated for someone to want this accessory without knowing (or maybe even caring) of its purpose.

If you would like to follow the prototyping accessory project, purchase one of the test run or make your own, the patterns, techniques, circuit diagrams and materials will be compiled and posted on Hannah and Irene's tool website toolswewant.at

BISHI feat. TONY BENN - Look The Other Way

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It was wonderful to work with singer, songwriter and multi-instrumentalist Bishi and her amazing creative team, styling this future-pop visual feast video. Bishi wears a whole Rachel Freire look in the first scene of the video, including a bespoke moulded leather corset, made the night before the shoot.

Released for the 2015 UK general election, Look The Other Way features socialist legend Tony Benn in a cautionary tale of harnessing anger and hope for a better world: